92.25 mi

Elevation gain

12,034 ft

Technical difficulty

Experts only

Elevation loss

11,867 ft

Max elevation

4,582 ft



Min elevation

142 ft

Trail type

One Way


5 days 9 hours 32 minutes




March 7, 2010


March 2010
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4,582 ft
142 ft
92.25 mi

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near Dadap Wetan, West Java (Indonesia)

Crossing West Java from N to S in 4 days by MTB; net cycle time = 21h 40min for 149km.
The 1st day –61.8km, 5h37min- from BSD (Serpong, 45m asl) the trail follows secondary asphalt roads with only a few holes and heavy to moderate traffic (start Sunday morning!), then it continuous on a narrow asphalt road moderately steep to Tanjungsari (640m).
The 2nd day –28.2km, 6hrs10min- the road becomes smaller as you ascend and after the tea plantation of Cianten (955m) it first becomes gravel and then turns into a stone road till Cipeuteuy (853m). From there the trail proceeds the first 2km on an asphalt road, however, the following 15km (2h!) to Citalahab (1100m) “run” on a very bumpy stone road.
The 3rd day –29.6km, 9h40min- an extremely rough track though jungle, up to 1400m asl, to Ciptagelar (Kasepuhan), a semi-autonomous princedom based on old traditions (adat)! After back-tracking to the crossing of Cipeuteuy you follow the asphalt road down to the river and up to Pameungpeuk (864m), from there it is a one lane dirt track, often deeply carved into the red, slippery clay, up&down, first through hortic.&paddy, then through beautiful mountain forest to a crossing (1219m); most of the time you will either push your bike or cling to it to avoid slipping. Finally the path becomes a broad but very bumpy stone road that continuous 1.6km down to Ciptagelar (1168m); these demanding 12.6km were beyond belief and took us 7h, not counting breaks!
The 4th day- 28.8km, 4h58min- you cycle mostly on very steep stone roads: backtrack uphill to the crossing and then downhill, (but very slow!) &often up again, till Ciptarasa (734m), down to 605m asl and again climbing on a better road via Pangguyanggan till 790m asl & then have a fast downgrade on asphalt to Pelabuhan Ratu at the South Sea.

- MTB with good (front) suspension
- shoes with VERY good grip
- Sundanese language (Bahasa Sunda), at least some words, like “punten” to apologise
- some information about Kasepuhan society
- Ikat for man & Sarong for women (needed at the palace of Ciptagelar), can be bought there
- bottled water (min. 3L) and some high energy snacks for the 3rd day
(no food stalls between Pameungpeuk and Ciptagelar)
- soluble isotonic drinks (>1L/day&person)
- oil for the chain, spare (inner) tubes & basic tools,
- umbrella

Take back:
- All your garbage/trash
- Only memories, photos and souvenirs of Kasepuhan & Baduy people

In detail:
1st day. We started 6 am Sunday February 28th (rainy season) from Taman Kota in BSD (Serpong, Banten) at 45 m asl. The trail runs on secondary roads towards Parung via Puspitek, Pabuaran (trad. Sundanese house on the parallel road, 88m asl) to the hot springs of Ciseeng (Bogor, km20; 114m). At the next intersection (Alfa market, S6.44157 E106.69523; 121m) turn R (sign: Rumpin) and after 4.9km turn R again. The scenery becomes ruralised and the river Ci Sadane, which cut 40m deep into the surface, is crossed by a bridge (78m); after the first steep down&up you eventually reach the village of Gunung Nyungcung (S6.45765 E106.64651; km29; 117m) in Kec. Rumpin. Its landmark is a strange looking hill (one of the numerous stone quarries, therefore creating heavy truck traffic, fortunately heading north, e.g. to Sukasari). The impact of the megapolis of JaBoTaBek lessens gradually as you proceed. Between Ciguah and Cibodas you cross the small feeder river of Ci Tempuhan (km32.5; 110m) then you reach Gobang (Bogor, km36; 135m) where several trails either start or end (e.g. Ci Pinang, Batu Tulis of Ciaruteun). Then you climb quite steep (14%) through rubber plantations to the top (230m; to the R is a nice forest with old “African trees” planted by Puspitek where the trail “Karehkel off-road” ends) and then downgrade again to cross Ci Kaniki (km40.8; 166m) and reach Karehkel (km41.5; 200m) after a short steep ascend (12%). The river Ci Anten lies to the L as the road continues moderately steep (~8%) to the busy market town of Leuwiliang (km45.7; 223m), >220,000 inhabitants. When you reach the busy intersection with the main road from Rankasbiatung to Bogor turn L and after 480m turn R (sign: Barengkog/Cianten, S6.57535 E106.63494; km46.1).
Now you heading N again on a small asphalt road, slightly uphill (2%) via Barengkok (km47.8; 261m) - where we had lunch -, crossing Ci Teureup (km50.2; 288m) the road gets increasingly steeper (~3%) further along Ci Anten via Lebakkaum (330m asl) to Hegarmanah (Karacak, km53.3; 386m). The road turns SW (km 53.9) and follows the feeder river Ci Puraseda, that runs deep below on the L, till the comparably busy village of Gudang where you turn SE to the bridge that crosses Ci Puraseda (km56.7; 455m). After ca. 500m the roads turns R (S) and climbs the ridge (km57.5; 490m), the first 1.7km moderately (6.5%) and than slightly uphill (1.5%) till the beautiful village of Tanjungsari (S6.68997 E106.61736; km61.8; 640m), about 100m above Ci Puraseda. Here we were kindly invited by the owner of a warung to eat with him and stay the night in his house; in return he accepted a gift.

2nd day. After a hot breakfast we stated at 7am. Ci Puraseda to the R (W) the road runs moderately uphill. After 650 m you reach the limits of the village (S6.68455 E106.61871; km62,4; 678m) and the road turns L. You constantly gain height when you steeply (11-12%) ascend the ridge that lies between Ci Manggu (creek) & Ci Puraseda (river). In a sharp turn L at the edge of the tea Cianten plantation you reach the warung of Nusantara VIII (S6.70240 E106.61150; km65.5; 955m); only 600m further uphill (12%) through the tea plantation you reach the pass at 990m asl. The trail then is rolling up&down through tea, passing a school and the storage house of Cianten tea estate (km68.4; 955m) and reaching its lowest point (at km69.1; 914m). Then it ascends moderately (3-4%) for 3km, at passing the settlement of Cigarehong (km71.3; 993m) and eventually for 600m a steep climb (18%) through secondary forest (Mt. Halimun-Salak NP, TNGHS) leads to the pass at 1088m asl; 200m before, on the R side, is a nice spot for a rest (km72.8; 1078m). After the pass, as we leave Kab. (=regency) Bogor & enter Kab. Sukabumi, the road deteriorates; the steep downgrade (15-16%) on loose gravel leads to the valley (km75.9; 807m) of Cisarua. The road crosses a creek and after a short steep climb (14%) we reach the comparable busy village of Cipeuteuy (km76.3; 853m); here you may stock up your supplies. Turn R (NW), after 100m you come to a crossing (sign: Stasion Penelitian Cikaniki 15km, S6.77281 E106.60175): turn R, the trail uphill that leads through TNGHS via Cikaniki to Citalahab; at first a short part on stone then on dirt road which becomes a smooth asphalt road (km77.5; 857m), that downgrades for ca. 1 km till the bumpy stone road begins (km78.4; 792m). The trail runs along feeder creeks of Ci Tarik, crosses several bridges, e.g. one before Nanggung (km80.4; 834m), passes two more settlements before you reach the forest. After rain deep puddles occur in the flat parts. The road surface and the constant ascend (5-12%) slowed down our cycling speed considerably and sometimes we had to push our bikes, passing the Gate of TNGHS (km83.1; 982m), then further uphill to the pass (km85.8 1131m) and eventually after exhausting 13km we reached Cikaniki Research Station (km88; 1045m); the village of Citalahab Sentral is 2km further and, +/- levveled on a bumpy stone road. At the sign (S6.73939 E106.53317; 1130m) turn L, 250m downhill is the nice home stay (km90; 1100m) of Pak Suryana (HP: +62-85716818469); guided tours available.

3rd day. Average speed ~3km/h says everything! We started 7am and back-tracked [grey monkeys (Surili or Gibon), vic. Cikaniki] to Cipeuteuy crossing (km 103.2): to the R an asphalt road downgrades to the valley and crosses Ci Tarik (Leule bridge, km104; 734m) & up again, 2 times R (W) to Pameungpeuk (km 105.5; 864m), then on a 1-lane earthy path through horticulture&paddy to the forest edge (S6.78574 E106.56253; km108.7; 1047m). By MTB-bike the track inside the forest is VERY slippery&difficult to ride [due to Cross Motorbikes ;-(], so we mostly (~80%) pushed our bikes up the groove (narrow furrows, <70cm deep) or used both feet to stabilise for hellish downhill rides in bump “creeks”: You pass a camp spot (km109; S6.78753 E106.56049; 1103m) and a group of tree ferns (km110.5; S6.79348 E106.54951; 1160m) before you reach the first tricky bridge (km111, S6.79399 E106.54715; 1122m), a rest spot (km112.4; S6.79845 E106.53766; 1257m), the 2nd tricky bridge (km113.4; S6.79687 E106.53047; 1175m); from here the trail steeply ascends, passing camp3 (km114.4; 3:30PM; S6.79298 E106.52027; 1314m), a pass (km115.6; S6.79515 E106.51515; 1388m), down to 1359m &up again till the final pass we reached at 6PM (km116,9; S6.80514 E106.51451; 1396m): dark, heavy rain & a hellish downgrade in rushing creeks with deep holes….we finally reached the stone road at (S6.80701 E106.50667; 1241m); close by is Saung Emak (ancestors’ worship, do not enter!). From here levelled to the crossing (km118.9; S6.80751 E106.50044; 1219m) and a bumpy ride down to Ciptagelar (km119.6; S6.80283 E106.49816; 1168m) where we were kindly received by Aba (Kepala Adat or Rajah) at his palace; in return he accepted a gift.

4th day. From there, backtracking to the crossing, further up (1231m), then the trail (many huts for shelter) leads on a very steep (~22% decline), slippery&bumpy stone road, down to Cibareno valley (km121.6, 1041m), crossing 2 bridges; then ascend very steeply (15%) to a pass (km123.2; 1208m), down (990m)&up again (km125.4; 1036m), then a very steep descent (20%) to Ciptarasa (Kasepuhan, km127; 734m). On better roads down hill, L before Kirakoneng, crossing Ci Maja (km129, 605m), one final strong ascend, passing Panguyanggan (km130.3; 720m) till 790m asl, and eventually leads downhill on a good road to Pelabuhan Ratu at the South sea.

1st ocean view (south sea) at 1170m asl

05-MRZ-10 9:56:21

bridge, tricky (1122m asl)

03-MRZ-10 13:30:38

bridge, tricky 2 (1175m asl)

03-MRZ-10 15:07:01

Camp 1 (1103m asl)

03-MRZ-10 11:52:40 space at least for 3P-tent

Camp 3 (1314m asl)

03-MRZ-10 16:34:30 space for one tent

Cianten tea fabric, 955m asl

Nusantara VIII
Mountain Bike

Cibareno valley '2 bridges' 1020m asl

05-MRZ-10 8:45:36 ca. 200m SWS is a shelter at 1118m asl
Mountain Bike

Cipta Pangguyang: R turn! (598m asl)

05-MRZ-10 12:42:18 turn R down the road!
Mountain hut

Citalahab Sentral HomeStay (1100m asl)

Pak Suryana Homestay (please make your reservation in advance) HP: +62-857-16818469

Cpitarasa (Rumah Adat), 735m asl

05-MRZ-10 11:22:06 The sister of the Aba of Ciptarasa (the aunt of the one in Ciptagelar) kept a big beetle of the family "Dynastidae", maybe Chalcosoma caucasustlas beetle) in a jar (with dry bark). After the foto it laid an imense egg (ca. 8X4 mm)!
Mountain Bike

Cipeuteuy crossing (Cikaniki / Pameungpeuk)

15Km NW to Cikaniki (Stasion Taman Nasional Gunung Halimun Salak, TNGHS) 2.4 km SE to Pameungpeuk (Sukabumi) at 864m asl 8.7 km N to Cianten tea fabric at the crossing is a small stall (Warung)
Mountain Bike

crossing Ciptagelar 1219m asl

650m NWN is the Kasepuhan village of Ciptagelar at 1170m asl 100m SES is a hut at 1237m asl further SES the stone road leads to Ciptarasa
Mountain Bike

Tanjungsari, limits (678m asl)

turn left!

tree ferns (1160m asl)

Cyathea contaminans COPEL, hight>8m no satellite coverage in Google maps/Google Earth!!!
Mountain Bike

Gobang Bogor (135m asl)

several of my trails start/end here

Gunung Nyungcung (Rumpin), 117m asl

Kac. Rumpin
Mountain Bike

Gate of Halimun National Park (981m asl)

Gerbang Taman Gunung Halimun Salak (TGHS)
Mountain hut

Cikaniki (Halimun Research Station), 1052m asl

to stay at the station call the Head Office in Kabandugan (Sukabumi): +62-266-621256 T N G Halimun Research Facility Bogor, Kabupaten, Jawa Barat
Mountain hut

hut 4 (Ciawi Tali), 980m asl

Ciawi Tali, usually a shelter against rain, however, in emergencies you may sleep here
Mountain hut

hut 6 (894m asl)

05-MRZ-10 11:07:14 200m S of forest edge at 883m asl

Hegarmanah (Karacak), 386m asl

at the river of Ci Anten (N of confluence with Ci Puraseda)
Mountain Bike

Leule bridge 734m asl

Pameungpeuk (Sukabumi) is about 1.4km up-hill at 864m, further up there are beautiful rice terraces at ca. 900m asl.
Bicycle Touring

Leuwiliang (Bogor) 229m asl

big regional market town on the (E-W) road from Bogor to Rankasbiatung.

Lolongoka Pass 1034m asl

Lolongoka Pass, 100m S is "hut 5" at 1024m asl


  • Photo of gribbo9999

    gribbo9999 Mar 9, 2010

    WELL DONE GUIDO - great trip you are a tough guy!

  • Photo of gbohne

    gbohne Mar 9, 2010

    Thanks for the flowers, and yes, it is a wonderful trip! Only the appreciation of this manifold nature could hold up our spirits when we thought we must be nuts using this path ;-), however, next time I certainly rather walk between Citalahab and Ciptagelar!

  • Photo of Bernardo60

    Bernardo60 Jul 17, 2010

    wonderful shot! Getting home sick!

  • Photo of Bernardo60

    Bernardo60 Jul 17, 2010

    Great shot! Getting the idea! Did you go on your own, but who took the photo?

  • Photo of gbohne

    gbohne Jul 20, 2010

    I did the tour with a female friend, however, without any guide; only GPS & compass.

  • Photo of gbohne

    gbohne Jul 20, 2010

    I live near Jakarta, however, it takes more than 6h to get there...

  • agustyawan Oct 4, 2011

    Hi Guido.. look easy for you, but not for me.

  • Photo of gbohne

    gbohne Oct 4, 2011

    Hi, Augustawan,
    the whole trip was not easy for me nor for my fellow cycler. At first the ever increacing traffic, but than the road never too steep (<9%). The second day was mentally challenging -such a rough rock-road... so 1-2 days rest in Citalahab was a must!
    The next when we crossed the jungle my fellow cycler admits "I am in marathon mode" - as I never did one I was really tired when we reached Ciptagelar.
    My "training" was every weekend a long trip (60-80km), but in a civil-style, never too fast as it's hot, drinking tea 4-6h of pure cycling time within a full day (hopefully till it rains); I am not a sportive person just some normal hiking and cycling to enjoy nature.
    Have a try! You could just ride 2says up the hill till the road ends (Pemempeuk) and 1day downhill back to BSD.
    Let me know

  • Photo of Rizal Bustami

    Rizal Bustami Sep 21, 2012

    Perjalanan yang panjang dna hebat. Tiga tahun lalu, saya menggowes dari Pelabuhan Ratu ke Ciptagelar. Dari Ciptagelar ke Jalan Raya Sukabumi melintasi Gunung Halimun. Setahun lalu, saya lintasi utara - selatan TNGHS. Salout untuk kawan-kawan BSD...

  • Photo of Arief

    Arief Jan 3, 2014

    fantastic mate... epic journey bravo

  • Photo of 离趣

    离趣 Mar 17, 2014

    Hello, I am a Chinese, I want to ride a bike trip in Indonesia, but my bike needs air in the past, when I came back, I need to bike into cartons, ask in Jakarta, where you can get cartons, cardboard bicycle . Good luck.

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