Gari to Krsiser ridge WARNING READ NOTES

See https://mymacedoniablog.wordpress.com/ for more info about sightseeing and hiking in Macedonia

WARNING: The part where the Krsiser rigde is climbed is very steep (30%) and difficult to navigate. There is no clear trail to follow. We almost gave up at a certain moment because it seemed too dangerous to continue. However, descending the steep part that we had just climbed also was not very inviting, so we continued to the top of the ridge anyway. From that point on the hike was a lot easier. This difficult part is indicated with the waypoints on the map.

I found this hike on Wikiloc (https://www.wikiloc.com/outdoor-trails/112-gari-krsiser-2816777) and it seemed perfect because our accommodation was Motel Topila in Gari. The original track was 16 km with 1160 m ascent and we felt confident that we could do this. The first part of the track was easy to follow and gave some excellent views of the mountain village Gari. The 3 little dogs of Motel Gari (brown Srna, black/white Leon and black Geena) decided to join us on our hike.

At a certain moment (indicated with the cross waypoint on the map) you leave the clear path with a sharp right turn onto the mountain. From here, the trail is less clear and it seems that this route is not used a lot. However, we had not a lot of trouble finding the right direction, and sometimes there were clear traces of a trail.

At a certain moment, marked by “rivers of stone” you’ll have to climb the steep Krsiser ridge, which we found pretty difficult as started in the warning in the beginning. Not just because of the steep ascent, but mainly because of the lack of a clear trail for this part. At least, we didn’t see it! This was both physically and mentally very demanding, because we could not decide to turn back or to continue. In the end we decided to continue.

After that difficult steep part the landscape became wide and beautiful.

There was a deserted sheep farm nearby. The dogs from Motel Topila who were very energetic at the beginning of the hike, now had a pretty tough time and seemed to be overheated from the exercise under the hot sun, so we took a lunch break.

We cut up a waterbottle as a make-shift drinking bowl for the dogs. Suddenly we heard barking of another dog and we swiftly continued. We were followed for a while by a big shepherd dog, which did not do a lot of good to our already fragile mental state. Luckily the shepherd dog took off after a while and we could continue on the beautiful plane.

We met a flock of sheep and their shepherd. He told us about a faster way back to Gari than following the initially planned GPS track. Because we were tired from the steep ascent, we decided to follow his advice. A few minutes after we had said goodbye to the shepherd, we noticed that one of the dogs from Motel Topila, Srna, had disappeared. We looked for her but could not find her anymore! Reluctantly we continued downhill back to Gari, afraid that the dog had overheated or maybe was caught by a shepherd dog. This really spoiled the rest of the hike for us, feeling bad for Srna and wondering how we had to bring the news at Motel Topila.

We followed a more or less obvious route freestyling downhill until we arrived at a 4x4 track. Not far from there we had to cross a small stream, which was playfully welcomed by the two remaining dogs who could finally cool down.

The remainder of the trail was on an easy-going dirt-road that also passes the St Petka spring, a church that was closed and a picnic place, all in each-others vicinity. This part of the trail is also included in the hike from Gari to Golem Rid/Bik Doruk and Babin Srt.

Make sure you do not miss the short-cut to Gari where you leave the dirtroad where it sharply turns to the right: you have to continue straight ahead and follow the smaller mountain trail.

When we were back at Motel Topila, my girlfriend had to bring the bad news to the owner that one of the dogs was missing. He had to laugh, and told us that this happened all the time and that the dogs sometimes stay away for a few days. Indeed, Srna was back the next morning! What a relief!

It’s difficult to rate this hike. We had a lot of mental stress (the unexpected steep and dangerous ascent, being chased by the shepherd dog, losing one of the dogs of the motel) so it was not very relaxing and we had an overall bad feeling. However, it is a beautiful and adventurous off-the-beaten path hike. When you are mentally and physically prepared to do the steep (and in our eyes a bit dangerous) climb of the Krsiser ridge this can be a very nice hike. Objectively, I should give it 4 out of 5 stars but subjectively it was a 3.