Mestia - Ushguli trail / Day 4 / Iprali - Ushguli / Svaneti / Georgia

The 𝐌𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐚 - 𝐔𝐬𝐡𝐠𝐮𝐥𝐢 𝐭𝐫𝐞𝐤 is the most popular multi-day hiking trail in the Transcaucasian region. The Caucasian mountains, the Svan people, and the high towers of this area create a truly unique and amazing experience.

This is the classic 𝐈𝐩𝐫𝐚𝐥𝐢 - 𝐔𝐬𝐡𝐠𝐮𝐥𝐢 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥, which serves as the second day of the 𝑀𝑒𝑠𝑡𝑖𝑎 - 𝑈𝑠ℎ𝑔𝑢𝑙𝑖 𝑇𝑟𝑒𝑘.

𝐔𝐬𝐡𝐠𝐮𝐥𝐢 is a remote village in Georgia's Svaneti region, known for being one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe, at about 2,100 meters above sea level.
Ushguli is part of the Upper Svaneti 𝑈𝑁𝐸𝑆𝐶𝑂 𝑊𝑜𝑟𝑙𝑑 𝐻𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑡𝑎𝑔𝑒 𝑆𝑖𝑡𝑒, recognized for its medieval architecture and stone towers, some dating back to the 9th–12th centuries.

◤Description of the Trail

This is the last day of the Mestia-Ushguli trek. When we arrived in Iprali, we realized that most hikers skipped this leg and took a taxi to Ushguli (about 10 km). We soon learned why:

▸The first part of the hike, until you rejoin the main trail, is a boring walk on asphalt.
▸The route through Davberi village is confusing, making it difficult to find the correct path.
▸The trail finishes with a 2+ km walk on asphalt into Ushguli.
▸The scenery on this section of the trail isn't as spectacular as what we'd seen on the previous three days.

If you decide to hike this section, here's some helpful information on finding the trail:

--- From Iprali village, descend to the main asphalt road leading to Ushguli. Turn left and walk for about five minutes until you reach a small footbridge. This bridge will take you into the village.

--- The trail through the village can be confusing. There are no signs, many wire fences, and no clearly marked paths. You can ask locals for directions, as they're familiar with the route, or you can use a GPS track (the confusing section is usually quite apparent on any recorded trek).

--- Once you find the trail, it's a pleasant walk through the woods. The first section, which is also the most challenging (ascending to 2150m), takes about one to two hours. From there, it's a nice traverse until the trail meets the main road. The final two kilometers into Ushguli are on asphalt.

--- We learned of an alternative route through Murkmeli village, on the other side of the Enguri River. However, we didn't take this path because:
▸We couldn't easily determine how to access the trail; the starting point was unclear.
▸We were hesitant about crossing private property in Chazhashi village and potentially having to pay a fee.

If you're interested in other trails in Ushguli, here’s the link to the Shkhara Glacier:↴

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tg-138937327#wp-138937334

◤When to Go?

▶Doable:

The season starts in mid-June and lasts until mid-October.

𝑀𝑖𝑑-𝐽𝑢𝑛𝑒 𝑡𝑜 𝑚𝑖𝑑-𝐽𝑢𝑙𝑦: You’ll experience the blooming and green season, though the weather can be unstable, with a higher chance of rain.

𝑀𝑖𝑑-𝐽𝑢𝑙𝑦 𝑡𝑜 𝑆𝑒𝑝𝑡𝑒𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟: It’s the high season with good weather and warm temperatures. This is also the most crowded period on the trail.

𝑆𝑒𝑝𝑡𝑒𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑡𝑜 𝑚𝑖𝑑-𝑂𝑐𝑡𝑜𝑏𝑒𝑟: Temperatures become cooler, and the trail is less crowded. Early October offers a fantastic display of colorful fall foliage.

▶Recommended:
July, Mid-September

▶Not recommended:
I wouldn’t recommend hiking the Mestia – Ushguli trail before mid-June, as the weather is quite unstable, with heavy rains and cold temperatures. From mid-October to June, the trail is mostly or partially snow-blocked, making it impassable.

◤𝐅𝐀𝐐 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝐌𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐚 - 𝐔𝐬𝐡𝐠𝐮𝐥𝐢 𝐭𝐫𝐞𝐤

▶ How many days does it take to hike from Mestia to Ushguli, and where should I plan my overnights?
▷ This is the most popular trail in Georgia. Originally, the trail was a 4-day hike, but due to the new asphalt road leading to Ushguli, many tourists now skip part of the hike and travel by car from Iprari to Ushguli (the 4th day of the trek). Therefore, this trail is typically a 3- or 4-day moderate hike, with some hikers opting to complete the last day. For advanced hikers, it can be done in 2 days as a challenging hike.

The logistics are straightforward, as there are affordable guesthouses and small cafes in every village along the trail. There’s no need to carry a heavy tent or sleeping bag.

If hiking over 3 or 4 days, overnight stops should be planned in these villages: Zhabeshi, Adishi, and Iprari (or Ushguli if skipping the 4th day). For a 2-day hike, plan to stay overnight in Adishi and Ushguli. The first, second, and fourth days are moderate hikes, while the third day, from Adishi to Iprari, is the most challenging."

▶ Is it safe to hike this trek? Are there wild animals? What about locals?
▷ As far as we know, there are no wolves, bears, or other dangerous animals on this trail. We didn’t encounter any dogs along the way, but I’ve heard of an incident where a shepherd dog attacked a woman on the Adishi upper trail (a side trail on the 2nd day of the Mestia-Ushguli trek) in late May. To be on the safe side, it’s always a good idea to carry pepper spray.

The locals are very kind, and many are helpful and friendly. However, remember that this is the Caucasian region, with unique traditions and mindset. While most people are eager to help, it's always wise to choose reliable guesthouses (check Booking.com recommendations) and, if traveling alone, stick with other hikers—especially if you are female."

▶ Is it one of those overcrowded trails?
▷ There are no overcrowded trails in the Caucasus! While this is the most popular one, and you may meet other hikers along the way, it still feels quite untouched, magical, and comfortable—especially if you’re hiking outside the high season months, like August and September.

▶ What about cell coverage?
▷ You’ll have mobile service for most of the hike, so there’s no need to worry about being unreachable.

▶ Do we need to book a guesthouse beforehand?
▷ We didn’t book any guesthouses in advance during our trip, as there were plenty of options listed on booking sites in every village we passed through. This was in early July, though, and from mid-July to September, it may become more difficult to find a good homestay. However, even if you prefer not to plan your overnights ahead of time, you shouldn’t have trouble finding a place in the villages, as locals are always ready to help with accommodations.

▶ Is it costly to do this trail?
▷ No, it’s not. This is one of the trails with the most affordable infrastructure and offers I’ve ever hiked in Georgia.
You can find affordable guesthouses (starting from 15 EUR) and enjoy delicious food in homestays or cafes (15–25 EUR). Many guesthouses also offer lunch services, preparing small lunch packs for hikers, so you won’t need to visit markets. The most important thing to know is that the only ATM is in Mestia, so it’s crucial to have cash with you.

▶ What about direction? Is there a big difference between starting the trek from Mestia or Ushguli?
▷ Yes, I highly recommend starting from Mestia.
Firstly, it’s better to challenge yourself during the first days, not the last ones. Ushguli is a great village to finish the trail.

Secondly, you may not feel as comfortable hiking most of the trail alone if you start from Ushguli, as there are fewer chances to meet other hikers in that direction.

Thirdly, the Adishi River tends to flood after noon. Crossing it can be quite challenging even in the morning, so it’s highly recommended to avoid crossing it when the water level rises. Additionally, there won’t be any locals with horses available to assist with the crossing at that time.

▶ Is the Adishi River crossing as terrifying as they say?
▷ The river crossing can be quite dangerous, especially if you're not an advanced hiker or if you're not confident with your balance. Inability to control your movements could lead to serious consequences, so it’s important to be very cautious.
The river flows fast, the water level can reach your waist, and the water is extremely cold. If you’ve never done a river crossing before, it’s best to avoid it.
That said, you'll be able to assess the situation carefully when you get there. At the crossing point, locals with horses offer a river-crossing service for a fee (25 GEL / 15 EUR for one crossing).

▶Does the Mestia-Ushguli trek match with the Transcaucasian Trail in Svaneti?
▷ The Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) is much longer than the Mestia-Ushguli trek, with the latter being a part of the TCT.

Around 95% of the TCT trail aligns with the current hiking trail, with the 5% mismatch occurring due to new private property areas along the route and changes in climatic conditions.

▶ Is the Mestia-Ushguli trek kid-friendly?

▷ Yes, the trek is family-friendly for kids over 8 years old with hiking experience. The trail doesn’t have steep edges, making it manageable for young hikers.

However, there is one risky spot: a river crossing 5 km from Adishi village on the 3rd day. Kids will definitely need the assistance of locals with horses to cross safely, accompanied by parents or guardians.

▶ Are there 2 different trails from Mestia to Adishi? Which one should I choose?
▷ Yes, there are two trails from Mestia to Adishi: one that passes through Zhabeshi and another that goes through Tsvirimi.

The classic Mestia-Ushguli trek follows the trail through Zhabeshi village.

The Tsvirimi route is less comfortable (with no proper paths, just rough jeep tracks), but some hikers prefer it for the first two days of the trek, especially because it offers stunning views—particularly on the first day from Mestia to Tsvirimi.
You can shorten the first day of the trek (Mestia to Tsvirimi) by taking the cable car to Hatsvali.
If you have extra days in your itinerary, you could hike both trails.

▶ Is the Mestia-Ushguli trail marked, or do I need GPS tools with me?
▷ The trail is marked by the Transcaucasian Trail and is generally easy to follow. However, the markings aren’t always sufficient for the entire hike. At certain points, there can be confusion due to various cow paths, and some junctions lack signposts. To be on the safe side, it's recommended to have GPS trails on your phone.

*𝐼𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑙𝑙𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑦 𝑁𝑜𝑡𝑖𝑐𝑒:
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