Coordinates 30924

Uploaded May 1, 2016

Recorded April 2016

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13,662 f
3,342 f
0
20
40
79.5 mi

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near Nayapul, Western Region (Nepal)

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I am convinced that Jimmy Page and Robert Plant wrote Stairway to Heaven after doing this route ... reDios as I hated them, the steps not the song, during the entire walk. And yes, in the end, the ABC is the Heaven, without any doubt.
More than a story of the route, we already do that in the newspaper, there are loose ideas and without much order, which I think is interesting to consider when planning this walk.

The peculiarity of the trekking circuits of Nepal is that they allow you to do stages without having to carry a tent and food, there are many options for lodging and feeding along the way, especially in this one of the short Annapurnas that should be, along with the base camp of Everest, the busiest.
The category and price of the lodges is quite homogeneous, both for accommodation and meals. Local communities take care of this point.
The differences between them are especially in the location, cleanliness and / or quality of the treatment of the people, although the latter is not like in Langtang, here there are many more people and it is the porters who facilitate the link with the lodge. I see that they act as maîtres and waiters.
The same thing happens with the variety of meals, even though it is wider than in Langtang.
In this respect there is a routine that everyone follows, breakfast is ordered the night before after dinner, and this must be done before 17.
The meals were made by step ... the points are marked on the track, and there you have to arm yourself with patience, this is Nepal and here the times are your times ... again the beer helps in the wait.

The circuit, another variable that matches the Sanctuary ... if we had more time and maybe legs, we thought about including Ghandruk.
Multiple possibilities, the planned, even commented with Gokul, was to go from Jhinu, sleep there and the next day go down to New Bridge to continue on, but the truth is that it was adding another good climb and the corresponding descent to the Modi, and We had well seen the Annapurna south, Hiunchuli and Machapuchare.

Guide, porters, or for free ... for us the guide is dispensable, with all the respect for them, that or that the porters who accompanied us were very good. In Langtang Noboraj, and here Sobin and Rajan, in addition to doing their job well and worrying about our well-being, they were excellent people.
We managed the lodges well in advance, adapted to the changes we made to the route plan agreed in the Agency and also pointed to the middle or end of the route brewers, gg.
It never hurts to remember that they are people, I hope that ours did not have a complaint, but you saw someone who even hurt my back ... it's simple, do not do with others you do not want them to do with you.

It is necessary to consider that the unevennesses of each stage are quite different from those of the difference of heights between beginning and end, the descents and ascents are habitual and hard, the stairs kill ...
Cuidadín, for example, with the descent to the river and up Sinuwa after Chomrong, I remembered all the way, just to do it for the second time ... this way of memory are important the differences, besides this one, between Chomrong and Jhinu, between Chuille and Chomrong, between Pothana and Phedi and the palm is the difference between Nayapul and Gorephani, so it seems better to do it like we do, more or less.
The stage from Deurali to ABC is demanding but I did not find it particularly hard, it will be that the adrenaline rush of reaching the top dropped the rest.

Alternative to Poon Hill is the view of the Annapurnas from the Deurali Pass, after Ghorepani and almost 3200 m, the view is closer, the Machapuchare (or Machhapuchhre) may not look better.
For guidance, the photos from Poon Hill should go better in the afternoon than at dawn, although in the afternoon there is nobody and is full at dawn.
Getting on stairs the first day (until Ulleri pe), not staying in Tikhedhunga which is what people usually do, on the second day it is feasible to go up well before sunset to the top.

Book the lodges in advance, in our case the porters did it ... there is a risk of running out of nothing, the more you climb. The lodges are already prepared with 'beds' around the table in the 'Dining' which is where many porters tend to sleep ... even that is busy.
Better lodges in the circuit of Gorephani than in the ABC, there even WC cup after Turkish plate and thank you.
You have to take toilet paper, or buy it in the lodges but they charge it almost at the price of beer, at 200 rps / roll I got to see it, and it's not a double layer or the little dog in the amount of paper.
In the lodges everything is an extra, there are no plugs in the rooms to load junk, the first was in Pothana and it did not work.
MBC, 5 lodges and ABC, 4 lodges without shower ours at least. In our ABC, shared rooms, without clear bathroom, we were 4 and occupied a complete.
Unlike in Langtang, and I think that in Everest too, we only found a stove in the dining room of the Gorephani lodge. Not even in ABC was there, and at certain times it must be quite cold ...

As the infrastructures are, to call them somehow, electrical in Nepal after the earthquake of 2015, power outages are common in the morning and in the afternoon, making electricity times a luxury. If thunderstorm, frequent here, goodbye very good ...
It is useful to carry a cargo supercar for electric gadgets or a solar charger to hang from the backpack and take advantage of the sun, to have something more than half an extra kg of weight.
They are not all the same, eye, mine of two leaves maintains the load and little more, it is true that with active position (for gps), variable signal, in mountain is already known, and active data.

Speaking of mobile, we recommend buying a Nepali prepaid card, NCell or Nepal Telecom, the latter we believe that at least in this area has better coverage.
We got an NCell, they ask for a passport and a photo, it's very cheap and the calls to Spain, with this company, they go to 6 rps / min taxes included.
As we are robbed with the rates the Spanish operators by the way ...
There is no 4G everywhere, except in the mountains, but ... it's what there is
By the way, all or almost all the lodges advertise Wi-Fi but in almost none it works, and if it does, the power goes out ...

Hot water showers, gas normally, about 100-150 rps.
Throughout Nepal the showers discharge directly to the floor of the bathroom, there is no shower tray, we wear some neoprene (surfers) booties that make slippers and occupy less, it is a good solution ...

A weather forecast is always complicated in these mountains, at least during our trekking a sunny and absolutely clear daybreak did not guarantee good weather beyond noon.
The downpours are very strong here, I suppose that above that translates into snowfall although we did not see any.
If you wash clothes, eye that does not dry easily, at least at this time.

The first days of walking we had a horrible visibility, in fact the first climb to Poon Hill at sunset was in vain, a fog, smog, haze, I do not know ... it prevented seeing anything.
Identical plan in the observation of the Cordillera from Sarangkot, also at dawn, in Pokhara.

We opted to spend the night in the ABC, in front of MBC and early morning climb to ABC, to have two opportunities to see the Sanctuary in all its splendor, rather failed the evening, the dawn was the most spectacular we have ever seen.

If you feel like it, eat meat (last chance Katmandu style, there is a photo out there) in Chomrong, also with western music !, not the omnipresent Indian, or clearly influenced by the neighboring giant, which they say is Nepalese ... I do not talk about music traditional, which is clear that there is, I do it from the one that all God has in the cell phone, and that sounds Indian ... to a very westernized ear, of course.
Pizza in Himalayas, they make it with a crunchy base, it even looks like an oven ...
To buy t-shirts, do it in Kathmandu, we did it in Chomrong.
It would seem more reasonable to leave the benefit there, but you try to sell them more expensive and the designs are the same, although with much less variety.
I suppose that with the memories, or 'crafts', the same thing will happen.

Beer, separate chapter ... prices start 'reasonable' but more expensive than in Kathmandu, then go up with the height, 450 rps to 775 in the ABC, are bottles / cans of 660 ml.
Above you can not find Gorkha, only Everest and the Nepal Ice that I did not taste (about 7% alcohol), above 3000 m I did not take it because of altitude sickness, worse after the heat of the walks I felt very, very all right.

In the thread of this, we did not see them in Langtang, but the Annapurna circuit surprises you from time to time with a dump, so we replenished water from the many 'tubes' that are in each lodge, and we added conservation pill, It was not drinking water, but it was useful ... until Chomrong we walked with precautions, but from there the pint of the water improved a lot, and in the lower areas it had nothing to do with that of the capital.
In this circuit stations of 'potabilization' are announced, more or less, in many of the towns ... up to you that the English say.

Full route of 10 days, the daily stages can be seen in

Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 1; Nayapul- Banthanti
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 2; Banthanti-Gorephani + 1st Poon Hill
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 3; Poon Hill 2nd, Gorephani-Chuille
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 4; Chuille- Sinuwa
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 5; Sinuwa- Deurali
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 6; Deurali- ABC
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 7; ABC- Dovan
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 8; Dovan- Jhinu
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 9; Jhinu- Pothana
Nepal. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC) + Gorephani, day 10; Pothana- Phedi

the beginning of the 1st day and the end of the 7th are painted on G. Earth, we ran out of GPS batteries, although it is not a problem because the route goes well without the gossip.
The heights of beginning and end of day respectively are not true, the good ones are 1070 masl Nayapul and 2493 m, Dovan (or Dobhan).
Therefore, the total cumulative differences in level to which the route calculates are greater.

The calculation, and the index, should not be very reliable because the little that I had to 'paint' when the gps died detracts.
IBP 975; http://www.ibpindex.com/ibpindex/ibp_analisis_completo.php?REF=36746655208641&MOD=HKG&LAN=es&REM=&SMD=m

More on the blog ...

View more external

Refuge

ABC

Spa

Aguas termales

Refuge

Birethanti

N28° 18.572' E83° 46.519'
Provisioning

Chomrong

Refuge

Chuille

Refuge

Deurali

Refuge

Dovan

N28° 28.208' E83° 52.175'
Information

Final día 7 sin gps

Refuge

Gorephani

Provisioning

Himalaya

Information

Inicio día 1 sin gps

Refuge

Jhinu Dhanda

panorama

Mirador Himalayas (Pitam Deurali, 3200 m)

N28° 23.729' E83° 42.782'
panorama

Mirador lago glaciar

Door

Nayapul

N28° 18.119' E83° 46.188'
Bus stop

Phedi

Summit

Poon Hill

Refuge

Pothana

Bridge

Puente colgante C2

Bridge

Puente colgante J1

Bridge

Puente colgante J2 Old Bridge

Refuge

Sinuwa

Intersection

Tadapani

Provisioning

Tolka

Refuge

Banthanti

9 comments

  • munt Mar 27, 2017

    Muchas gracias por el track i toda la info, muy intersante.
    Una duda: la agencia de los porters la buscasteis en Katmandú o era des de aquí?

  • Photo of jrgbonma

    jrgbonma Mar 27, 2017

    Gracias a tí munt.
    Aquí tienes la información de Outshine, http://www.outshineadventure.com/contact-us.html
    A Gokul ya lo conocíamos de nuestra primera vez en Nepal, por Langtang, y repetimos con él.
    Este año esperamos hacer el EBC y será con él y su gente también.
    Gokul habla y escribe español y es muy majo, en ambas ocasiones lo llevamos todo arreglado desde aquí.

  • Photo of sarapizarrolopez

    sarapizarrolopez Aug 16, 2017

    Ruta muy agradecida, impresionantes vistas.
    Única dificultat: Altitud y cansancio acumulado.

  • Photo of sarapizarrolopez

    sarapizarrolopez Aug 16, 2017

    I have followed this trail  View more

    Ruta muy agradecida, impresionantes vistas.
    Única dificultat: Altitud y cansancio acumulado.

  • Photo of jrgbonma

    jrgbonma Aug 16, 2017

    Gracias por tu valoración, y me alegro que la disfrutaras.

  • Photo of fraycar

    fraycar Dec 27, 2017

    Agradecido y muy bien explicado, he vuelto a recordar está aventura ke realice hace 22 años. Un abrazo. Y continúa.

  • Photo of jrgbonma

    jrgbonma Dec 27, 2017

    Gracias fraycar, si este resumen te trae recuerdos, no dejes de entrar al blog de mi socia que escribe mucho mejor. Abrazo¡

  • Photo of Ferri6a

    Ferri6a Sep 20, 2018

    Buenos días. Me preguntaba si podría enviarme algún mapa par mi Garmin gracias ( de nepal)

  • Photo of jrgbonma

    jrgbonma Sep 29, 2018

    Ferri6a, supongo que de pago lo habrá en la web de Garmin, de alternativas libres, yo llevo el Oruxmaps en el móvil, los debes encontrar en las webs habituales, andromaps, OSM, etc.

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