658 f
8 f
12.59 mi

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near Dhërmi, Vlorë (Albania)

The idea was to hike along the coast of the Albanian Riviera. It turned out that this is not a simple journey these days. Many of the old coast paths visible on the old topographic maps have simply vanished, overgrown by macchia.
Starting from south Dhërmi beach, the trick is to find the right path going up. It's somewhere behind the last house. If you proceed to the southern end of the beach, there will be no way to negotiate the cliffs. The path leads into a woodland with some ravines. It's easy to get lost here. If in trouble, consult my track. Eventually you will make for Manastiri i Shën Theodhorit, and surely enjoy some scenic views there.
In front of the monastery you cross the parking lot and start walking on a gravel road. Following my track will lead you into difficult terrain. If you have a map, or GPS, I recommend following the road. Eventuelly it will lead you to Gjipe beach, which might be considered something next to paradise. If you happen to be alone there with the right person...
I would recommend t to stay at Gjipe beach and enjoy your time there. Trying to walk further will get you into trouble. The path along the coast looks promising, but it only leads to some bunkers before it gets lost. The only chance is to head north through the Macchia for a road leading to Jalë. From there, another dirt road leads towards Himara. Being tired by fighting the Macchia, we didn't try to find the shortest path along the coast, but opted for the safe bu tiresome road over the hills. And finally reached Himara.
Next day, bad weather forced us to change plans. Instead of following the coast further south, we took the furgon to Gjirokastra.

1 comment

  • Photo of Zbulo.org - Discover Albania

    Zbulo.org - Discover Albania Dec 8, 2015

    The trail from Gjipe to Jal along the coast used to be opened every year, early in the season April-May it was easy to pass but that can change quickly. If possible to pass I would prefer this route over walking on the road.
    The stretch from Livadhi to Himare (direct connection) follows an old dirt road, wide not overgrown path, but it's then easier to follow the track to the stadium instead of sticking to the coast to reach the center.

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