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near El Chaltén, Santa Cruz (Argentina)
The way that I followed to reach Laguna Olvidada is arguably not the simplest one, since it unnecessarily reaches the col below the Techado Negro, and then needs to traverse what I called "Little Red Summit", in front of what I suppose to be Cerro Ñire, needing then the unclimbing of steep and not very stable rocks, followed by a steep snow coulouir. With sufficient attention, however, the whole can be achieved.
The next step would be to search a more direct approach to Laguna Olvidada, probably leaving the shore of Laguna Sucia very early after the ford.
Afternoon start from my hostel in El Chaltén. Walk to Poincenot, taking some photos at the classical spots: Mirador Río de Las Vueltas, Mirador Fitz Roy, Laguna Capri. From Poincenot I make an evening recognition until Rio Blanco, such to have no problems then in following in the darkness.
The day after, I wake up in the night, in order to be at the Miradores for dawn. Long photographic stay, since the weather is moderately cloudy, which accounts for dramatic and spectacular light changes.
When I am satisfied with photos I start to climb Cerro Madsen. I do not understand why such an easy and close summit is not considered a must by the trekkers coming here. I ascent the (moderately) hard way, following the upper stretch of the ridge rising from the Laguna de los Tres. This way I am rewarded by deep views on the turquoise waters. Long photographic stay on the Cerro Madsen, especially on the uncomfortable big summit stone, whose ascent is mandatory if one wants to shoot a 360° panorama. Later, much later, I go on to the last big rock dominating the col in direction Fitzroy. I call this the Cerro Madsen Avanzado.
Next, I descend the mountain traversing obliquely the summit snowfield rather than unclimbing the ridge. Descent to Río Blanco and Poincenot.
The second day I go to the Laguna Sucia, with the intention to attempt a traverse to a little lake that I spotted from Cerro Madsen, little below the Lomo de las Pizarras. I will call this lake Laguna Desconocida, or Olvidada, being not able to locate a name for it anywhere. Consider also that is does not exist either on Google Maps on on any printed map. In the satellite image, however, you see it covered by snow.
After having forded the river at its very exit from the lake, I follow the south shore of Laguna Sucia for approximately 3/4 of its length. I find some cairns on the way. At a certain point I begin to ascend the slope following the steepest gradient. There is scree, but it is not loose since there is also a lot of vegetation and also solid rock. I climb a little step on the side of a likewise little waterfall. Now I cannot continue straight in direction Mojon Rojo, since in short I would enter the glacier. Instead, I turn a bit left, entering a little lonesome valley at the foot of the Techado Negro. Before reaching the watershed where I would be right over the Mirador Maestri, I turn right ascending what I call "Little Red Summit", nothing more than a prominent big block on a ridge which would lead to a steep red rock pyramid, whose ascent seems very dangerous in view of the quality of the rock.
But Little Red for me is enough, since a couloir appears, leading down straight to Laguna Olvidada. The first 50 m to unclimb are both steep and delicate. Maximum caution is needed. Even more caution is needed in the following snow couloir, since I do not have any snow gear. Luckily I can exit very early to the rocks on the East side, and on that terrain it is easy to reach the laguna. I unfold the sleeping bag few metres above its NE corner, since the night seems to be wind-free.
The following morning I witness a spectacular "enrosadira" (to use Dolomitic terms) on the Fitzroy, a memorable experience. I climb some rocks in the vicinity, such to reach a sufficient height to have also the Cerro Torre in sight, but with the intention to return down, in order to take further photos of the perfect reflections in the laguna.
When I have packed enough photos, I climb the short scree slope to the Loma del las Pizarras. The unknowns are now over, since the trekking summit is already in sight, and from there a safe ridge should lead me to El Chaltén.
After a short little scree summit, I reach what I call the angular summit, both theoretically and practically one of the best viewpoints of the region. From there I k=make the mistake to follow integrally the rocky ridge, but some gendarmes would require rappels, so I have to go back a little bit and lean on the W side. From the touristic summit I follow the long, panoramic and extremely pleasant ridge. At a certain point, to avoid a foresummit which looks out unpleasant I lean on the SW slopes. Now I see on the map that that foresummit is marked Mirador...
There is still some way to reach the wood and, immediately after, the well trodden path connecting Valle Torre to the lagunas Madre and Hija. From there on, I simply follow the path all the way to El Chaltén.