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near Badagaun, Western Region (Nepal)
Day 1: Besi Sahar - Ngadi
Day 2: Ngadi - Tal
Day 3: Tal - Chame
Day 4: Chame - Ghyaru
Day 5: Ghyaru - Manang
Day 6: Manang - Tilicho Base Camp
Day 7: Tilicho Base Camp - Tilicho Lake - Sheree Kharka
Day 8: Sheree Kharka - Ledar
Day 9: Ledar - Thorung High Camp
Day 10: Thorung High Camp - Kagbeni
Day 11: Kagbeni - Jomsom - Tatopani (Jomsom to Tatopani by car)
Day 12: Tatopani - Ghorepani
Day 13: Ghorepani - Poon Hill - Nayapul
You have to pay your trek permit at the office in Kathmandu and this could take you 1-2hrs if it's busy.
From Kathmandu we managed to get a private transport that took us to the village of Besi Sahar. We booked it at our hotel in Kathmandu but there are other ways to get there such as the public bus. The trip to Besi Sahar is long and roads are not great. Once we got there we started walking around 5-6 pm. We did not book any of the sleeping places in advance. We did the trekk in April and there were plenty of accomodation spaces everywhere. You can buy food all the way around the circuit, so there is no need to carry any with you. As an advice I would choose the houses with gas showers. We did not have good experiences with the solar ones.
About the equipment: Our backpacks were around 14-15 kg. They were pretty heavy but most of the staff we took was used on the trekk. Mind that weather conditions can rapidly change and due to the altitude the climate could be quite extreme. Some of the staff we took included:
- Good sleeping bag. Comfort 0°C
- Walking boots and a spare pair of trainers/sandals as a back up
- Raincoat and waterproof over-trousers
- Thermal Layer
- Middle layer (fleece, dawn...)
- Snow gloves
- Sun protection and good sunglasses
- Head torch
- 1L water bottle.
- All the rest of the stuff you would normally take anywhere.
About the altitude sickness: Everyone reacts differently to the altitude. We were 7 people an none of us suffered any major effect. We did follow couple of advices someone gave us:
- If you are getting altitude sickness symptoms. GO BACK DOWN! You should start feeling better.
- Above 3000m try not to loose your breath. Slow down your path and keep a normal breathing pattern if possible.
- Try to spend couple of nights at around 4000m before going any higher
- Some days in altitude, specially on the short days where we were arriving early to the sleeping place, we used to leave our backpacks in the house and walk 200-300 meter higher and then come back down to sleep.
- Doing the side trek to Tilicho Lake, was a good test/training before heading to Thorung-La pass
- You can buy pills and drugs at any chemists in Kathmandu. We did buy some Diamox and Dexamethasone pills. Thanksfully we did not have to use them.