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near Puerto Natales, Magallanes (Chile)
From Puerto Natales I cycled to the Rio Serrano entrance to the park, via the Y-290 road, which was closed for works. However, I begged the guards to allow me to pass, otherwise a long detour on bad gravel would have been needed.
From Serrano I cycled to Mirador Grey. Then came the most spectacular and famous stretch, that along the lakes, Serrano to Laguna Amarga. There I left the bicycle and went for a trekking to which another track is devoted, namely http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=12060871
After returning to the bicycle, I went north to Laguna Azul, and even a bit further in direction Paso Zamora. I returned south via the main route to the park. The track does not close in a loop, and rather ends in Villa Cerro Castillo, since from there I crossed into Argentina, in direction Cancha Carrera - Tapi Aike - El Cerrito - El Calafate - Perito Moreno.
Note that, if Paso Zamora were open, in a 50-60 km the cyclist could cross from the Paine to the Perito Moreno. Unfortunately, just to have the right stamp on the passport one needs to go for the full detour mentioned above - maybe 400 km in the pampa and exposed to the worst Patagonian winds.
PHOTOS: WORK IN PROGRESS
Turn left here if you want to pass through the Milodón site
A very important landmark, especially for those who have read Bruce Chatwin's book "Patagonia".
The first important lake along this route. Quite an announcement of the larger Lago del Toro. I camped on its shore.
Here you are already in front of one of the most beautiful mountain sceneries of the world.
With a camping and some hotels.
Very close to Administracíon, the buildings hosting the park's headquarters, and to Puente Weber.
Located on a little peninsula, it is ne of the most striking places of the region. There is a high probability to see some beautiful iceberg in the vicinity. Also rich of flowers.
Situated right above the waterfall Salto Chico. Here you find the most iconic view of the south side of the Paine.
To be honest I did not stop at the Hosteria, since I wanted to reach Amarga before night.
So called because they are two twin lakes. Skirted by the road.
Highest point of the road between Serrano and Amarga.
The reference door to the park for trekkers.
Point where I met a big number of guanacos.
Few tourists undertake this northwards detour. However, they may be rewarded by a spectacular sunrise over the Torres, weather permitting of course.
The waypoint is set at the northernmost point that I touched on the road to the closed Paso Zamora.
The best place to observe this important lake, famous for its shore showing a white belt.
Eccentric shop-restaurant at the fork to Cancha Carrera.
Fork to Cancha Carrera, in Argentina.